Rosacea Awareness Month

Rosacea is a chronic condition that cannot be cured. But treatments can keep the symptoms under control. It most commonly starts as rosy cheeks and nose. Sometimes there are tiny vesicles that should not be extracted. While it can appear at any point in life, it often first shows up in the 30s.

To know if your rosy cheeks are rosacea, you should have it diagnosed by a doctor. Estheticians can help you keep it under control, but diagnosis is the scope of the physician. Sometimes the doctor will prescribe an oral product. Be sure to let him know of any side effects. Pair this with good professional skin care treatments.

There are several different levels of rosacea. If it is ignored, rosacea can worsen. Rosy flushed cheeks with some tiny vesicles is the mildest form. Papules and nodules along with the redness is more severe. Occasionally, it can affect an eye. The most severe form causes reddening and enlarging of the nose.

Once you know you have rosacea the best way to control it is to learn what your triggers are. Triggers are the things that cause it to flare up. It could be stress, heat, spicy or hot foods and many other things.

A journal can be your friend. If you note your face feels hotter, redder or breaks out pause. Think about what you have done in the last few hours or previous day. Note this in your journal.

  • If you had four cups of coffee instead of your normal two and you are more flushed… that could be a trigger.
  • Spent the day on the mountains or at the beach… sun/heat could be a trigger.
  • More problems in the summer? Heat could be a trigger.

There are an almost endless list of possible triggers, so learning what yours are can be invaluable.

Scientists are still debating the causes behind rosacea. Bacteria, skin inflammation, vaso-dilation, fair skin and genetics are all contributing factors.

Look for skin care for chronically sensitive skins. Avoid perfumes, harsh stripping ingredients strong chemical peels or abrasive treatments.

Think calm, sooth, heal.

  • Anti-inflammatories or anti-redness formulas help reduce the red appearance.
  • Calming and soothing ingredients help make your skin more comfortable.
  • Anti-bacterial ingredients help those with combination or oilier skins.
  •  Studies have shown rosemary helps control the demodex mite.
  • Hot humid climates can worsen the condition. Be sure to have those calming soothing products on hand.
  • Treat your skin gently.
  • Avoid extreme heat, showers or saunas.
  • Learn your triggers and avoid them.
  • Learn stress management techniques to keep stress levels down.
  • Work with a skin professional experienced with rosacea to find what works for you.

It may take a little practice but those symptoms can be kept at bay and your skin look and feel its best.

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Brow Secrets for Success

Want great brows?  Here are some secrets to help you get the brows you’ve wanted so long.
 
Each of us has our own unique vision of what eyebrows should look like.  Others have said to me, “I don’t know what they really should look like. It’s confusing.” I help them discover their perfect brow.
 
And then there are the fashion fads. Right now big bold brows that almost meet in the center of the nose and extend out beyond a normal brow are popular. These might look well on a tall statuesque model. On a smaller person, they look over done.
 
Your face, your bones, dictate the best brow shape and placement for you. Ignore this, and you will never be completely happy with the result. If you want fashion trendy brows – use cosmetics. Don’t have them tattooed this way. It is a recipe for unhappiness.
 
Keep in mind that while permanent cosmetics do fade, it can take 20 years or more for all the color to disappear. A shadow of color can last even longer. Get it done right in the first place. Once done, there are limitations to what change or “fixes” work.
 
Here are some tips skilled professionals wish every potential client knew.
1. Everyone’s brows are asymetrical. The two sides of our face are not the same. You will always have a favorite brow. Your technician can help make them look closer to the same, but they will never be identical. One eyebrow bone is naturally higher. That is the way we are. Skilled technicians have ways to minimize this but they can’t eliminate it.
 
2. Your technician should measure and mark the plan for your eyebrows. Freehand work is not the way to get the most symetrical brows.  
 
3. There is no one right style of cosmetic tattooed eyebrow for everyone. Not everyone looks good with the same haircut. It’s the same with your brows. You need a technician skilled in a variety of styles to best help you.
 
If you have been filling in your brows with a pencil or powder, a powder fill, or ombre technique may be best for you. From arm’s length away, you will look very natural, just like you have a bit of makeup in your brows. Those used to this look find the hair strokes or microblading look like there are bare spots.
 
4. Different techniques need different re-enhancement. Microblading needs a re-enhance every 8-12 months. It is best for those who want individual hairs to show and don’t mind the extra expense.
Powder fill or ombre (shaded) brows can last 2-5 years before they need re-enhanced.
 
5. Your medications and lifestyle can affect color retention. Your eyebrows will need daily SPF for longer lasting results.
 
Experienced technicians know that if it has been more than 5 years clients need a “new” brow. Re-enhancement perks up the exisiting color. More faded work needs a follow up visit to bring back the brow the client wants.
That means they need a new brow procedure which includes the needed second visit.
Do your research.  Go in for a consultation.  If you and the technician are of the same mindset, go for it.  Enjoy those brows.
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Winter Permanent Cosmetic BFF Special

BFF Permanent Makeup Special

Permanent Cosmetics make your life easier!

Give your confidence a boost and getting ready in the morning a breeze.

Bring a friend and save!

For a limited time if you bring a friend and each have a permanent makeup service you will  both save !!

 New procedures – $75.00 off.  Re-enhancement procedures (single visit) $50 off.

OR…. Have 2 procedures done at the same visit and we will give YOU the same discount on each procedure.

Offer valid through January 31, 2017.  Schedule your appointment now!

Call:  541-344-7789

Coupon code: BFFNow

Limited offers available

I work by appointment only to assure you quality and personalized attention.

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All About Brows: Microblading, Hair Stroke, The Blend, Powder Fill, Shaded

Each client has their own unique vision of what eyebrows should look like.  Selecting an eyebrow style or technique must be matched to the individual client, their goals, their needs.  I never do a “cookie cutter” approach.  There is no one right or best style except the one that is best for  YOU!

Sometimes eyebrows suffer from fads. Skinny little lines or big fat brows that nearly meet in the middle of the nose.  Neither is a great choice for permanent cosmetics.  Yes, permanent makeup fades, but it takes a long time, years to completely go away. In the mean time you are stuck.  Changing brows once they are in place is very difficult. The end result will be better, but not as good as it could have been if done right the first time.

Your face, your bones dictate the best brow shape and placement for you.  If we don’t respect the bones, the brows don’t age as well.  You want them to look fabulous today, next month and years from now. I always take before and after photos so we can see you in your current makeup, without makeup, and the finished result.  I measure and mark, with your input. We design them together.

Brows should always be measured and marked – not done freehand.  You get a much better outcome. Why? Because everyone’s face is asymmetrical.  We want to give the illusion of them looking more alike but respecting the bones.  Together we evaluate your goals, your skin and come up with a plan to get your look.

Microblading is a current marketing style.  It is individual hair strokes which has been done for over 20 years.  The key difference is it is done with what they call a blade. But is is not really a blade. It is a manual tool with a single row of needles.  The skin is stretched taunt and the blade drawn across the skin in a slicing action. Done too superficially, it fades away in 4-6 weeks. Done too deeply, it can scar. Each hair is applied in a single stroke, not reinforced.  The finished look is individual hairs with skin showing through between. Because the strokes are not reinforced this technique requires at least annual re-enhancement.

Hair strokes: This technique can be done with a manual, or motor driven device. It uses a single row of needles like microblading. Hair strokes are implanted one at a time. Some may be reinforced for better hold. For a natural look strokes may be done in different directions. This technique needs re-enhancement every 18-24 months.

The Blend: This technique is done either with a manual or motor driven device. Needle choices are slightly broader.  Hair strokes are implanted and then portions of the brow, where hair naturally grows more dense are reinforced so the end effect is natural looking, with some hair strokes showing and some blended. Typically re-enhancement is 2-3 years.

Powder fill: If you are used to seeing yourself wearing pencil filled brows, this may be the look you really want. While the pigment is still implanted in hair strokes, they are closer together. Healed, the finished look is you in well designed, makeup. Skin does not show between the strokes. Some clients think they want the hair strokes, but don’t like the “holes” between them where skin shows through.  Re-enhancement varies from 2-5 years depending on many factors.

Shaded: This can be done with any of the other techniques.  It uses multiple shades of color to create highlighting along the top of the brow and shading along the bottom to give it more three dimensional feel.

Want to know more about your very best brows?  Call today: 541-344-7789.

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Human Microbiome – Whats it all About?

Recently I have seen the term microbiome pop up in blogs, articles and discussions.  Slightly skeptical after 35 years, I wanted to know what it was all about and what its real importance is to us in the spa and permanent cosmetic industries.

Time for research – my favorite pastime…

Definition:  microbiome is defined as “the microorganisms in a particular environment (including the body or a part of the body).”

We knew that the human body was covered in microorganisms but that the stratum corneum did a great job of keeping them on the outside. We also knew that our gut had to have microorganisms to digest food.  Now we have a new name for these groups of workers – microbiomes.

Internally, if the microbiome group is out of balance we have digestive disorders or even disease.  Each of us has 10 – 100 TRILLION microbiotic cells in our bodies.  These are found in the greatest numbers in our gut and allow for the proper digestion and absorption of nutrients. When the microbiome is out of balance disease, obesity, personality disorders and many other problems occur.  When microbiomes are in balance we “live long and prosper.”

With new technology, microbiome studies have blossomed all over the world.  Study of the human microbiome date back to the late 1600s but the human geome project completion, and expanded abilities of computers, has launched us into far greater understanding.  It has also created even more questions.

Of greatest interest to those who have direct physical contact with clients is understanding the microbiome of human skin.  The surface of the skin has 100 trillion microorganisms living on it. That is 10 times the number of skin cells. Hand hygiene is of crucial importance to reducing transfer of microbiome from one person to another.

In our industry practicing good hand hygiene and regular hand washing are the best defense to prevent contracting or sharing of disease. Routine use of gloves when there is the risk of exposure or transfer of OPIM (other potentially infectious materials), is the best practice.  If we need to touch something and there is a risk our gloves may be contaminated – change gloves!  Wash hands before work, between clients, before eating, after using the restroom and before going home.

Scientists are just learning about the hand microbiome and its relationship to health outcomes. Better control and studies will expand our knowledge. In the meantime, keep practicing good hand hygiene.

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Carpal Tunnel Syndrome – Common Workplace Hazard

Sore wrists? Tingly fingers? Little electrical sparks in wrists, arms, fingers?

Any or all of these and you may be developing Carpal Tunnel Syndrome (CTS).  A buildup of pressure in the wrist, it can also extend to the elbow or even the shoulder.  Carpal Tunnel used to be a problem typically found in the elderly, worn out wrists.  Today it is showing up in Generation X, the Milennials and more.  Why?  Repetitive motion of the wrist or hand.  Texting, gaming, twisting of the wrist can all contribute.
Its not uncommon for the first symptoms to be a tingly sensation in the fingers.  Maybe it wakes you up at night.  Maybe you notice it when using your gaming control. Maybe when driving long distances or gripping something firmly. Massaging or shaking your fingers may help, temporarily.
Ignore the symptoms and it will get worse. You will feel more pain, tingling, numbness, sparking. You might start dropping things.  The good news – there are treatments and preventative measures. The sooner you take action, the less risk of permanent nerve damage or disability.  Early diagnosis is key.
Often the first treatment will be wrist braces that you can wear at night.  When we sleep we curl our hands and wrists into odd angles as we snuggle into our favorite fetal curl. While everyone is different, I found the braces eliminated over 80% of the symptoms.
Did you know that if you have these symptoms and they are potentially work related in Colorado you will be referred to see someone who practices Active Release Tecniques (ART) before you see a doctor.  Typically ART is performed by a specially trained provider, often a Chiropractor.  ART is so unique it has been granted a medical patent.
Who likes surgery?  If you are like me, you don’t.  If I can find a good way around it I will.  On the suggestion of a great friend, I decided to try ART before undergoing the surgery route.  No down time!  Its like other chiropractic treatments. Quick and back on the road.  My first time following the ART they hooked me to an EMS machine to stimulate nerve repair. It was odd but certainly not painful.
Your wrists may be a little tender where the doctor broke up the build-up of crunchy bits.  This goes away in a day or so and they will generally follow up with you a few days later.  Based on how your symptoms are they will repeat the ART.  Everyone is different but its common for 3-4 visits over about 3 weeks.  For most people they are back on the road. You may need a follow up treatment every few months.
Surgery is always there as an option.  It comes with a much higher price tag, downtime and rehab time. If you are prone to keloid scarring, this can affect your outcome.
Next time – tips for preventing CTS.
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Why Estheticians Wear Gloves

My recent post on wearing gloves got positive support from many, thank you.  I did find it sad that one spa said they got a negative review for their technicians wearing gloves.  This shows the need for consumer education.  Maybe a little flyer or insert on your web page that explains how you are protecting clients by wearing gloves.  Feel free to use the following to promote client safety and help consumers understand why more and more estheticians are wearing gloves during services.

Gloves are often used in esthetic services to protect the client, and the technician from transmission of potentially infectious microbes (OPIM).  These tiny organisms cannot be seen by the human eye, or even with the magnifying glasses commonly found in a treatment room.  If you have ever had a manicure and noticed an irritated cuticle the next day, or had a waxing done and then experienced tiny red papules in the area, this is likely caused by those microbes.

Today’s technicians are taught to practice infection control and the prevention of cross contamination.  During a wax procedure this would include wearing gloves, disinfecting the area, remove the hair and then disinfect the skin again.  Each step is an important link it preventing irritation or infection.

Any time your esthetician performs an exfoliation treatment; microdermabrasion, scrubs, galvanic, chemical peels, or ultrasonic, it can allow tiny portals in the skin to let bacteria in or out. The same is true for extraction. To protect both the client and the technician, gloves may be worn for the duration of the treatment.  It is that extra step to protect you that is important to us, your professional estheticians. Even if there is no visible openings in the skin, we do not want to risk transmitting a microbe from ourselves or any other object in the treatment room onto a “potentially” open surface.

Some states now require all technicians to wear gloves for all treatments.  They are taking a pro-active stance to prevent any possible problem.  The good news?  Today’s gloves are thin, protective and have great tactile feel.  You probably won’t even know your esthetician is wearing them.

Most estheticians no longer use latex gloves, but if you have a latex allergy please do bring it to their attention.  Today’s gloves are generally vinyl or nytrile. They should be exam glove quality.  In the future you can expect to see more nytrile gloves in use as they are much more environmentally friendly, even though the cost of use is still more than vinyl.

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Macadamia Nut Oil

Although I have been attending skin care trade shows for the past 3 decades, every time I go, I come home with new information, new insights and sometimes a great new product. This year my biggest “ah-ha” was macadamia nut oil – direct information from the farmers.  Macadamia nut oil is the closest in composition to human sebum.  This means it is easily absorbed into the skin and its components become bio-available to the skin. The first thing I noticed when they “demoed” it on my hand and arm was that afterwards there was no greasy feeling that I would have expected from a product with significant oil content.  The skin felt super soft and had almost a glow to it. While it wasn’t greasy or sticky, it felt well, moist.  I walked around and tested other products but nothing came even close to the feeling I had gotten from this lotion. I went back and purchased some to test it out.  Hours later, I noticed my skin still had that nice, soft, moist feeling. Pretty amazing.  So following their suggestion for improving the skin, I applied it before bed. In the morning, my skin was still moist.  Nice surprise.  I continued to use it twice daily. In about 3 days, I noticed my tear drop psoriasis was fading away and my normally quite dry legs were staying soft and smooth feeling all day long.  Time for some internet research.

Almost 90% of macadamia oil is made up of 3 fatty acids; oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, and palmitic acid. Oleic acid is a monounsaturated, omega-9 fatty acid that moisturizes the skin and acts as an anti-inflammatory. It helps skin cells regenerate quickly, keeping skin smooth and supple. Palmitoleic acid is a monounsaturated, omega-7 fatty acid that helps to prevent burns, wounds and skin scratches. It is the most active anti-microbial in human sebum and is surpassed only by palmitic acid as the main fatty acid in sebum. Palmitic acid is a saturated fatty acid that helps maintain the skin’s healthy barrier function, by forming an occlusive layer on the surface.

Skin’s sebum consists of a number of complex lipids, such as, triglycerides, wax esters, and squalene. As we age, the production of sebum changes in both quantity and in composition. In early adolescence, our sebum production increases until we are in our 20’s and 30’s, where it begins to decline. The amount produced varies between males and females, with females experiencing a more noticeable decline around the age of 40. (No wonder we get dry skin when we go through menopause. The composition of our sebum also changes with age. The two main fatty acids of human skin sebum are palmitic acid (22.5%) and palmitoleic acid (21.8%). The level of palmitic acid in sebum remains fairly constant throughout our lives. However, the production of palmitoleic acid starts to decline once we are in our 20’s.   My research indicated it is not comedogenic.

While all the scientific information seems good, it gets even better when you talk to people who have been using it a while. It is particularly helpful to maturing skin.  Its composition lets it soak in more deeply than other oils so the skin becomes better hydrated and skin seems to “recognize” the components and make use of them.  As a skin care professional I use a lot of wonderful serums and products on my face, but I have never found a body product I could stick with – until now.  I have only been using it less than 3 weeks, but my skin is softer, smoother, firmer with no hint of the former dry flakiness. Feel free to do your own test. Buy a bottle and try it twice a day for at least a month (how long it takes for the skin to completely turn over) and send me a message with your results.  You can find it on our website at http://www.estheticsnw.com/jindilli-delight-in-your-skin/ or pick up a bottle the next time you visit me at the clinic.

 

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Permanent Eyeliner Styles and Tips

Permanent eyeliner is the process of implanting pigment into the skin.  It is a form of tattooing. While it is permanent, it does require the color be refreshed periodically.  Frequency of re-enhancements depends on the technician’s skill with their device, but also it depends a lot on the client.  Certain medications and/or medical conditions seem to cause more color loss or quicker fade.  The more medications the client is taking the odds are the color won’t hold quiet as long before needing refreshed.  I typically see my clients every 2-5 years.  The eye is a sensitive area but because of the thinness of the skin, the area responds very well to

During an initial consultation always wear your eyeliner so your technician can see what your style and goals are.  Very wide eyeliner, tails and wings are a bad idea with cosmetic tattooing because the tattoo does not age well.  And what looks good on us in our 30’s or 40’s may not look so good in our 60’s, 70’s or 80’s.  Why?  Because when we apply cosmetics topically we automatically make adjustments as our face changes with time.  The tattoo in the skin can’t do this.  So we need to take a more classical approach and add the fashion look with cosmetics when it is appropriate.

People who are sporty naturals and don’t want a “made up” look, love lash enhancement.  With lash enhancement tiny dots of pigment are placed in between the lashes. The healed result is the appearance of thicker lashes.  This works well for both women and men.  I have found it works best for clients who have darker lashes.  For those with blond lashes, the dots don’t blend in as well.  For those with blond eyelashes, go for a very thin line. Anyone can wear a thin natural look eyeliner.

A classical eyeliner starts with a natural eyeliner but then widens it out a bit. For safety reasons, eyeliner should not go closer to the tear duct than the last eyelash, nor should it extend beyond the last eyelash at the outer corner.  The structure of the skin changes at that point and there is a high risk of migration which is not correctable. If you want it to extend farther or you like to have the outer corner upper connect to the outer corner lower, this is better done with makeup.  Classical eyeliner can be applied either narrower on the inner corner and wider as it moves to the outer corner or in a dome where the widest part is directly over the iris.

If you like a slightly more smudgy look, this can be achieved with a halo color.  A halo color is an additional line placed just above the upper eyeliner. It is designed to disperse more and give a soft halo to the eyeliner.  Halo colors are lighter and softer than the black or off-black eyeliner colors. Most pigment manufacturers have moved away from the dated green, violet and navy eyeliners, opting instead to recommend dark brown, brown black or black.  While I used to do dark brown or brown black, I now avoid this whenever possible.  Browns are a much weaker color and fade faster. Black goes into the skin better and stays much longer.  For clients that feel black is too harsh for them, a deep moss or charcoal color is a good alternative.

Many ophthalmologists recommend permanent eyeliner for their clients who have a lot of allergies or sensitive eyes. Its also great for people who have lost their close up vision or struggle with dexterity.  Permanent makeup does not smear, smudge, or bother your contact lenses. It stays on right through whatever your busy lifestyle may encounter.  To help it last the longest, wear dark glasses when you are exposed to UV light.

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Rosacea

Rosacea

Rosacea is a chronic skin condition that if not controlled can worsen over time.  It used to be thought to be a form of acne, but research has shown that it is more vascular in nature. While it can occur on any skin it tends to be more prevalent on lighter skin tones. It is more common in women than in men, but it can be more aggressive in male sufferers. In the United States it affects more than 16 million people but some are never diagnosed or know what is behind their ruddy cheeks.Rosacea can manifest at any age, but it is more common to show up in the 30’s to 40’s. Symptoms include redness on the cheeks, nose, chin or forehead, small blood vessels on the face, watery eyes and sometimes acne like breakouts. Typically breakouts look like tiny bumps or pimples. In more severe cases nodules or cysts can form which  must be treated by a medical professional.

For each person different things can trigger the face to become more red and or a breakout to occur or “flare”. It is important to become aware of what your individual triggers are. Keeping a diary is handy.  If you have a flare think back to what you have been doing and eating in the last 24 hours. For most people sun will cause a flare.  Always wear sun protection when going outdoors and don’t let the fact you are using an SPF lure you into staying too long.  Some sufferers find sun protection products can trigger a flare.  If you have this problem, look for “physical” blocks.  These typically have zinc oxide and or titanium dioxide in them. They seem to be much less problematic for those with rosacea.  Other common triggers can be caffeine, wine, spicy foods, or heat, especially humid.

Look for skin care products designed for sensitive skin as these will be free of triggers like fragrance. Rosacea skin is sensitive skin.  Gentle cleansers not harsh soaps are the best choice. In moisturizers go for something light weight.  Look for products with calming, soothing ingredients like chamomile, allantoin, arnica Montana, panthenol, sea whip, reversatrol and many others.  The guidance of a well trained skin care professional can be quite helpful.  Avoid rough or abrasive scrubs, harsh masks, extreme heat, or stimulating facial treatments.  Think calming and soothing.

As a skin care professional for over 30 years, I have found gentle enzyme treatments, ultrasonic treatments, LED therapy all work very well for my rosacea clients.  Avoid most chemical peels unless they are specifically designed for your skin type and microdermabrasion treatments are not your best choice. Properly selected products and treatments can keep your skin in balance and the redness controlled or eliminated. Some of my clients have reported even a doctor did not realize they had rosacea.

Only a doctor can diagnose rosacea. Because it can worsen over time, it is best to get it diagnosed so that if appropriate a topical or oral prescription therapy can be implemented. This in conjunction with learning your triggers, selecting gentle sensitive skin products, using SPF and finding a good esthetician to help you in the ongoing battle and your skin can look its best leaving you less concerns and more able to enjoy life.

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